This being the middle of January (and we being in the middle of taking inventory), it's hardly surprising that I found only two new wines in the store this week, both reds, to wit:
La Linda 2007 Tempranillo @ $9.99
Alexander Valley Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Franc @ $22.99
(both prices are my estimates as neither wine had been put into the system yet)
Now that the holidays are over, we are back to our regular schedule of in-store tastings, with Thursdays and Saturdays devoted to wines and Friday night to spirits. Join us today, 4-7, for a tasting with Sussex wines; then Thursday (5:50-8:30) meet importer Liz Willette, Friday (same hours) for Laphroaig Scotch, and next Saturday (4-7) we will feature the wines of Thierry Puzelat, presented by importer Louis/Dressner.
The other item on the current agenda is our concern regarding the governor's initiative to permit grocery stores (large and small) and convenience stores to purchase wine retail licenses; we are opposed to this, and ask for your support as well. There is a petition at the front counter of the store available for you to sign; additionally, we urge you to contact our local legislators to express opposition to this move; they are
Daniel Squadron
State Senator
212.298.5565
http://www.danielsquadron.org/
Joan Millman
Assemblywoman
718-246-4889
http://assembly.state.ny.us/mem/?ad=052
State Senator
212.298.5565
http://www.danielsquadron.org/
Joan Millman
Assemblywoman
718-246-4889
http://assembly.state.ny.us/mem/?ad=052
We estimate that as many as 2300 small stores may be put out of business as a result of this change, and that consumers will experience a significant loss in terms of selection and knowledgeable service. Also, should this change take place there would be a significant diminution of control over the sale of alcoholic beverages; it is a known fact that most of the infractions in the area of under-age sale of alcoholic beverages are committed by grocery stores, and most states that have alcohol for sale in major grocery chains also have a high rate of DWI infractions.
Finally, there are four new samplers available at the store; write-ups for three of them follow, and the write-up for the fourth, Rhone Reds, will be available next week.
Ariel's Lesson #1: ABC
As part of an on-going effort to educate myself, and other curious wine minds, this will be the first in a series of samplers that will not only highlight our latest and greatest wines but more specifically discuss a grape varietal or wine producing region of the world.††Consider it a new years resolution or personal enrichment course that requires nothing more than checking in with us every few weeks and tasting with an open mind.
Lesson #1: "ABC", in wine speak stands for "Anything But Chardonnay" but I thought I'd share my interest in a few grapes you may or may not already know that produce some particularly good wines in the store right now.
Domaine Marcillet 2007 Aligote Bourgogne
A Chardonnay is often a risk – will it be light or full bodied, buttery and oaky or light and racy? It can be confusing, and sometimes disappointing. Aligote is an easy go-to when you're looking for a light, crisp, high acid, minerally white wine to sip on with oysters or as a simple palate cleanser. Aligote is possibly best known as a mixer that cuts through the sweetness of creme de cassis in a Kir - a time-honored brunch cocktail and very pleasant apertif. While the grape is heavily planted in Eastern Europe, we're most familiar with the wines it produces in Chablis and the Cote d'Or, where many give it second status as the step-sister, ugly duckling, or "other" white grape from Burgundy to its famed and fabulous star white varietal, Chardonnay. If there were ever a producer who didn't care what the rest of the world thinks it's the folks at Domain Marcillet. Nadine and Remi Marcillet are true vignerons who live far from anyone and everything in the Burgundian wilderness - no email, no internet, just wine and country. They live in a 300-year-old stone farmhouse where they produce traditional wines of great quality, and do wonders with Aligote. This wine has natural great acidity balanced by a soft green apple creamy quality. It's medium bodied and all together a truly charming wine. Light enough to throw back on its own and distinguished enough to hold up to a white fish, shellfish and poultry.
A Chardonnay is often a risk – will it be light or full bodied, buttery and oaky or light and racy? It can be confusing, and sometimes disappointing. Aligote is an easy go-to when you're looking for a light, crisp, high acid, minerally white wine to sip on with oysters or as a simple palate cleanser. Aligote is possibly best known as a mixer that cuts through the sweetness of creme de cassis in a Kir - a time-honored brunch cocktail and very pleasant apertif. While the grape is heavily planted in Eastern Europe, we're most familiar with the wines it produces in Chablis and the Cote d'Or, where many give it second status as the step-sister, ugly duckling, or "other" white grape from Burgundy to its famed and fabulous star white varietal, Chardonnay. If there were ever a producer who didn't care what the rest of the world thinks it's the folks at Domain Marcillet. Nadine and Remi Marcillet are true vignerons who live far from anyone and everything in the Burgundian wilderness - no email, no internet, just wine and country. They live in a 300-year-old stone farmhouse where they produce traditional wines of great quality, and do wonders with Aligote. This wine has natural great acidity balanced by a soft green apple creamy quality. It's medium bodied and all together a truly charming wine. Light enough to throw back on its own and distinguished enough to hold up to a white fish, shellfish and poultry.
$15.99/btl;$159.90/cs
Casata Monticello 2005 Barbera d'Asti
I love Barbera for its fruity and floral nose, generous fruit and, perhaps most, for its acidity which keeps it fresh and vibrant. Barbera is grown all over Italy but its home is in northern Italy, in Piedmont. It is said to have been discovered in the Monferrato hills, where it is still produced, but the villages of Alba and Asti produce the bulk of what we taste in the US. Barbera from Alba produces wines that can be rich and smooth. In Asti the grape produces a brighter colored wine, tending to have feistier fruit and more present acidity. As is always the case, it's the oak presence or lack thereof that will have the greatest effect on the wine. Barbera can be a light and breezy quaffing wine or it can be complex and powerful. Casata Monticello falls into the first category, it goes down almost too easily. Plump cherry and plum fruit is held together by firm but not harsh acidity and even though the wine has some age on it, it's still very fresh. Casata Monticello is so easy and delicious to drink, and currently my first choice for a pizza wine – particularly with the Margherita pizza next door at La Pizetta!
I love Barbera for its fruity and floral nose, generous fruit and, perhaps most, for its acidity which keeps it fresh and vibrant. Barbera is grown all over Italy but its home is in northern Italy, in Piedmont. It is said to have been discovered in the Monferrato hills, where it is still produced, but the villages of Alba and Asti produce the bulk of what we taste in the US. Barbera from Alba produces wines that can be rich and smooth. In Asti the grape produces a brighter colored wine, tending to have feistier fruit and more present acidity. As is always the case, it's the oak presence or lack thereof that will have the greatest effect on the wine. Barbera can be a light and breezy quaffing wine or it can be complex and powerful. Casata Monticello falls into the first category, it goes down almost too easily. Plump cherry and plum fruit is held together by firm but not harsh acidity and even though the wine has some age on it, it's still very fresh. Casata Monticello is so easy and delicious to drink, and currently my first choice for a pizza wine – particularly with the Margherita pizza next door at La Pizetta!
$11.99/btl;$119.90/cs
JP Private Selection 2002 Palmela
Our C grape, Castelao, is from Portugal and is perhaps better known to the US market as Periquita, "little parrot", a proprietary name acquired by the Cove de Periquita when it was first planted in the 1850s. Portugal remains one of the few remaining regions of the world where you can still find a good bargain, and the JP brand is one you can rely on for really good, really cheap wines - think Target (soft g, accent over the e please). However, the wine featured here is JP's Private Selection - think Commes des Garcons at H&M or Stella McCartney if you prefer. The Private Selection is only produced in spectacular growing seasons and then held another year in oak casks. The 2002 vintage is the latest one on the market. Ruby colored with a garnet hue, the wine has the nose of a great aged Rioja Reserva with sweet cherry jam like fruits, tobacco, and a tinge of French oak. It is medium bodied with black cherry fruit on the palate that is not rich or jammy, with leather, tobacco, and spice flavors to finish.† The wine is complex in a classic European style, it has an aged quality beyond its years and is drinking beautifully right now. Will pair well with a variety of chicken dishes, as well as lamb – a great choice if you're dining at one of the BYOB Middle Eastern restaurants close by.
Our C grape, Castelao, is from Portugal and is perhaps better known to the US market as Periquita, "little parrot", a proprietary name acquired by the Cove de Periquita when it was first planted in the 1850s. Portugal remains one of the few remaining regions of the world where you can still find a good bargain, and the JP brand is one you can rely on for really good, really cheap wines - think Target (soft g, accent over the e please). However, the wine featured here is JP's Private Selection - think Commes des Garcons at H&M or Stella McCartney if you prefer. The Private Selection is only produced in spectacular growing seasons and then held another year in oak casks. The 2002 vintage is the latest one on the market. Ruby colored with a garnet hue, the wine has the nose of a great aged Rioja Reserva with sweet cherry jam like fruits, tobacco, and a tinge of French oak. It is medium bodied with black cherry fruit on the palate that is not rich or jammy, with leather, tobacco, and spice flavors to finish.† The wine is complex in a classic European style, it has an aged quality beyond its years and is drinking beautifully right now. Will pair well with a variety of chicken dishes, as well as lamb – a great choice if you're dining at one of the BYOB Middle Eastern restaurants close by.
$11.99/btl; $119.90/cs
Sampler A with 2 bottles of each wine: $66.50 (approx.)
Judy Rings in the New!
Ringing in the new year inspired me to ferret out three new wines to feature . . . A bit of a challenge, since we try our best not to complicate our lives by taking in new items during the holiday season. I did manage to fine a sampler's worth, though, so here goes!
Emerson Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris
The father-son team of Tom and Elliott Johns own and tend 127 acres of vineyard in Oregon's Willamette Valley; here Elliott makes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris from grapes grown on the estate and Syrah from grapes bought in from Lodi California. Elliott strives for the most elegant wines possible, a style that is clearly evident in his Pinot Gris: silvery and brilliant, it has flavors of pineapple and lime, with a crisp finish highlighting spice and minerality.
$16.99/btl;$169.90/cs
The father-son team of Tom and Elliott Johns own and tend 127 acres of vineyard in Oregon's Willamette Valley; here Elliott makes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris from grapes grown on the estate and Syrah from grapes bought in from Lodi California. Elliott strives for the most elegant wines possible, a style that is clearly evident in his Pinot Gris: silvery and brilliant, it has flavors of pineapple and lime, with a crisp finish highlighting spice and minerality.
$16.99/btl;$169.90/cs
Belpoggio 2007 Rosso Piceno "Stupor Mundi"
The Belpoggio Estates are located in the heart of the Marches, on Italy's Adriatic coast, where the winegrowing tradition is thousands of years old. The growers here have jointly 500 acres in production, and all practice eco-compatible agriculture, paying the greatest attention to respecting the land and the environment. This Rosso Piceno is a judicious blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano, made and matured entirely in stainless steel; an almost transparent ruby red, it has intense fruit flavors of ripe peach and plum. Why the name "stupor mundi," which is Latin for "wonder of the world"? The label features a portrait of Frederick II, who became Holy Roman Emperor at the age of three; his intelligence and talents were so formidable that he soon acquired the nickname "Stupor Mundi."
$11.99/btl;$119.90/cs
The Belpoggio Estates are located in the heart of the Marches, on Italy's Adriatic coast, where the winegrowing tradition is thousands of years old. The growers here have jointly 500 acres in production, and all practice eco-compatible agriculture, paying the greatest attention to respecting the land and the environment. This Rosso Piceno is a judicious blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano, made and matured entirely in stainless steel; an almost transparent ruby red, it has intense fruit flavors of ripe peach and plum. Why the name "stupor mundi," which is Latin for "wonder of the world"? The label features a portrait of Frederick II, who became Holy Roman Emperor at the age of three; his intelligence and talents were so formidable that he soon acquired the nickname "Stupor Mundi."
$11.99/btl;$119.90/cs
Chateau Pesquié 2006 Terrasses
One of the leading estates in the Côtes du Ventoux appellation, Chateau Pesquié is a family venture now in the third generation, second generation Paul and Edith Chaudière having recently passed the baton to sons Alexandre and Frederic and their cousin Reynaud. The Chaudières named this wine in homage to the Provence countryside terraces their ancestors carved into carefully chosen sites and planted to olive groves and vines. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, the wine is dark red with berry aromas, powerful on the palate but with elegant tannins and a spicy finish.
$14.99/btl;$149.90/cs
One of the leading estates in the Côtes du Ventoux appellation, Chateau Pesquié is a family venture now in the third generation, second generation Paul and Edith Chaudière having recently passed the baton to sons Alexandre and Frederic and their cousin Reynaud. The Chaudières named this wine in homage to the Provence countryside terraces their ancestors carved into carefully chosen sites and planted to olive groves and vines. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, the wine is dark red with berry aromas, powerful on the palate but with elegant tannins and a spicy finish.
$14.99/btl;$149.90/cs
Samplers B, with 2 bottles of each wine: $73.25
Tara's Rebus of the Inauguration and All-American Celebration
Gruet Brut Methode Champenoise
A crisp and full-bodied sparkling wine, which has developed rich complexity and fine mousse. The allure of toasty finish from twenty-four months on tirage is a complement to the sophisticated apple and citrus flavor. Winemaker's Note: Brilliant with ultra fine bubbles. A wonderful fine bouquet dominated by green apple and grapefruit flavors. A truly classic house style!
Gruet Brut Methode Champenoise
A crisp and full-bodied sparkling wine, which has developed rich complexity and fine mousse. The allure of toasty finish from twenty-four months on tirage is a complement to the sophisticated apple and citrus flavor. Winemaker's Note: Brilliant with ultra fine bubbles. A wonderful fine bouquet dominated by green apple and grapefruit flavors. A truly classic house style!
$14.99/btl
Candor NV Zinfandel
Zinfandel is California's signature grape, and a variety that has gone
through more rough patches and glory days than most. Zinfandel in the
glass can be thrilling, and it can be absolutely generic. Great
Zinfandel grapes grow in pockets all over the state, and the Hope
family have done their homework. This wine benefits from a combination
of hardy, gnarly old vines, some of them over 50 years old, and
exuberant new ones, all meticulously farmed. Blended together across
vineyards and vintages, Candor Zinfandel has real panache—bright berry
fruit, spice, and that undefinable zing that says it's really
Zinfandel.
Zinfandel is California's signature grape, and a variety that has gone
through more rough patches and glory days than most. Zinfandel in the
glass can be thrilling, and it can be absolutely generic. Great
Zinfandel grapes grow in pockets all over the state, and the Hope
family have done their homework. This wine benefits from a combination
of hardy, gnarly old vines, some of them over 50 years old, and
exuberant new ones, all meticulously farmed. Blended together across
vineyards and vintages, Candor Zinfandel has real panache—bright berry
fruit, spice, and that undefinable zing that says it's really
Zinfandel.
$17.99/btl;$179.90/cs
Liberty School 06 Cabernet Sauvignon
Liberty School's Cabernet Sauvignon comes primarily from the east side
of Paso Robles, prime Cabernet country, with the added complexity of a
few west side sources. Drawing on multiple vineyards—usually about a
dozen each year—allows the winemaking team to take advantage of
different soils, micro-climates, clones and rootstocks to create a
harmonious, balanced, rounded final product.
Liberty School 06 Cabernet Sauvignon
Liberty School's Cabernet Sauvignon comes primarily from the east side
of Paso Robles, prime Cabernet country, with the added complexity of a
few west side sources. Drawing on multiple vineyards—usually about a
dozen each year—allows the winemaking team to take advantage of
different soils, micro-climates, clones and rootstocks to create a
harmonious, balanced, rounded final product.
$14.99/btl;$149.90/cs
Sampler D: $83.99 for two of each
Sampler D: $83.99 for two of each